Hi-Lift 4 Link Help

[DREADY]

Right here goes first post so be gentle!

Have just bought a Tamiya Hi-lift my first 3 Speed and want to Four Link the rear suspension?

Making Parts isn't a problem, i'm getting stuck with the different angles for the four links. (hope that makes sense)

Is there a golden rule that you must follow to achieve the best articulation, angles of rod's where to mount etc?

Any pics or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and congrats on a new site, it was about time someone dedicated one purely to tamiya 3 speeds.


Dready

[monster_beetle]

I'm also in the process of 4-linking my liftie.
The parts you need are some T-maxx shocks (I use the ones from hot-racing) And traxxas part nr. 5539 and 5139.

Use 5539 for the front, and 5539 for the rear. You can connect them to the gearbox skidplate, and at the rear to the holes you connect you leafs springs to. And use one of the triangular things that are also in the kit, fit it in the holes next to the center of the diff. And connect your rods to it (the hole above).

At the front you can do the same, but must make a plate to fit your servo onto your axle. And connect the middle rods to the plate.

When I'm at home again today I can make some pics for you. I don't have the front 4-linked at the mo, but the rear is done.

Hope this helps

[DREADY]

Thank you,

The front is staying with leaf springs it was just the back i wanted to do. Have made some arms out of 4mm threaded rod and Aluminum Bar over the top so they look nice using the black rod ends that are left over in the kit. Have mounted the lower ones on those triangular block things.
So the upper arms go over the top on the leaf spring blocks?

Pictures would be great, and on another how to note is there a way to insert images without using a hyperlink?

Are you the same monster_beetle from tamiyaclub?

Dready

[monster_beetle]

Yes I'm the same monster_beetle as on tamiyaclub.

I personally should not use the left over rod ends from the kit. I should buy the traxxas 5347 rod ends, because they have hollow balls. So the can mounted upon each other, and can turn smoothly around the balls.

Hmm, can't find a possibility to upload pictures on the forum here... Only possible with hyperlink I think...

[DREADY]

Thanks it's nice to get a reply so quick

Dready

[monster_beetle]

Just found out how to attach an image. Under the text box there's a box with additional options. There you can attach them :)

[DREADY]

20

Hopefully a picture of my truck!

[william]

I find the longer, and more parallel the upper and lower links the better it works.

I made this bracket
http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/_hbracketa.jpg

some TLT mounts
http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/_haxle03.jpg

then 3mm rod and traxxas ball ends give you

http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal__hi_side1.jpg

[william]

articulation shot

chassis, note rear axle links are not finished yet, hence positionng This was during the ''mock up'' phase

http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal__hbrackets00%20001.jpg


http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal__high05.jpg

http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal__high_left2.jpg

[monster_beetle]

Here are pics of the way I've done the rear. I hope it clear things up, note that you have to put some small rings between the axle and the triangular thing on the side of the diff cover.

[DREADY]

Cool Pics and that should be all i need for now, will get cracking and post some pics when i'm done.
Thank you both.

[william]

no problem. Take your time, and you'll do fine. :first:

[DREADY]

Thanks william, will post up some pics when i'm done.
Just a quickie how do you get images to appear large on a thread instead of little thumbnails?

Dready

[william]

bb code and hosted on another site

if you do attatchments they show thumbnails to click on.

[DREADY]

Right i've cracked the rear 4 link here are some pics.

83

84

85

86

87

I used the left over parts from the kit for the lower mounts and rod ends of the lower bars.

Bought some threaded rod and aluminum tube from homebase for the arms and had some ends left over in my box of bits.

Decided that by putting a bar above the rear diff housing i could adjust the distance of the upper arms.
Looks better to i think.

Have got to re-assemble the cross members on the chassis rails as one had to go to allow for the top links but it should still be strong enough.

Also had to add some small springs to the bottom of the dampers as they didn't have quite enough umph to push the truck back up again when the battery was in situe. But it looks neat so i'm happy.

Good articulation 3 Cigarette packets is more than enough for me.

Thanks for the help and if anyone wants some help with this subject have some more pics of mounts and things i can send or post.

Regards

Dready

[monster_beetle]

Looks god. But why have you done the springs over the shock shafts? Because originally they have to be inside the shocks.

[DREADY]

The standard ones are inside. Without changing the springs the shocks didn't have enough spring in them. tHe truck just sat down with the battery in place.


The only springs i had would not fit inside so i scratched my head for a while and then put them on the outside there a perfect fit and they work great now.

I wanted to keep the standard shocks so they matched the front, plus i'm skint at the moment and cant afford a nice brand new set of four!

[william]

nice work, top and bottom parallel will help it a lot keeping the driveline working smooth. :yourock:

One thing, noticed you used tamiya flange nuts, try for some 3mm lock nuts as the vibrations will otherwise keep you busy with repairs. :sorry:

[DREADY]

Cheers for the tip will pop to the shops on the way home from work.